overall I’m exited to play with this extension because I will be adding graded roads and pads on to the surveyors terrain area. In my many re-dos of this I’ve reorganized my order of operations (leaving importing the road and building drawings till after the original satellite imagery is done.) and changed some of the means to the end because of learning new extensionsĪ) imported the geolocated terrain first ,ī) then in an separate file i used toposhaper to make the terrain from the surveyors contours,Ĭ) then copy and pasted them into the same file as the geolocated file.ĭ)Then I used your method of first placing and lowering the toposhaper terrain as close as possible to the geolocated terrain and adjusted with mesh as needed.Į)then I selected, copied, and pasted in place a rectangle from the geolocated file, moved it up, flattened it with vertex tools, Quadded, added mesh rings/loops with quad face, and painted it orangeį) then I used align ends to drop it back over the geolocated terrain and the toposhaper terrain.Ģ)now im at the point of trying out the artisan extension to smooth… I downloaded the trial of artisan2, but it won’t let me use the brush. an example is when I did the paste in place of the terrain that was then flattened and quadded, the rings were not all straight, they would bulge in some areas, all on the same plane but not parallel to each other. one thing that I’ve noticed is how mesh gets distorted between actions at times.thank spirit for all the forum helper and you in particular! It has been very frustrating and at times I’ve wanted to quit or destroy my laptop. trying to figure out the things I’m doing wrong. I really appreciate all your chiming in, I have been redoing the same map almost daily since this thread. The last image need a bit of work on the tin to finish it off, but you get the idea of where you can go with it.Hi there. ![]() You have a few options on how to colour it now, so no need to go there. ![]() That way there shouldn’t be any issues if meshes need to be combined, a 3D print is required, or I need to map it for rendering. ![]() I usually take care to ensure it is a solid at each step. Into a more pie like profile - but this will definately slow your Mac down. (I scaled up uniformly to around 300mm in diameter and then squashed it to about 70mm.) You could use the scale tool on hidden geometry (as I did here) or maybe FFD to distort the mesh I am using a PC, and this might be different on a Mac though. stl (it is the smallest file size - rather than Collada). I also use 3D Coat (not free), or simply go straight into SU and adjust - depending on the complexity of the mesh. )I used (in this case) Meshmixer (it’s free) to remove and repair the base of the mesh. Nothing else to adjust - no repeats, ect. You would need to calculate circumference to height ratio, thickness, etc, and of course account for the high poly count - which maybe your Mac could do ok. Thickness - 3mm (Rembember the model will be scaled up later)Ĭurve - 0 (Not relevant here, but if you use a flat surface and have a Curve of 360 you will create a hollow cylinder (as opposed to the “Solid Cylinder”), which you could use to create textured sides of your base. The system will crash if very large meshes are requested.) Size - 100mm (I kept it small to reduce the final triangle count, and as the resolution doesn’t need to be very high. ![]() )I then upload the image to Image To Lithophane, adjust the parameters to correspond with the job requirements. The principles behind how this works are also useful to know. )I begin by optomising the image in Photoshop, and while this video: Getting to Grips with Lithophanes from 3D printers - YouTube is actually about 3D printing of lithophanes, it is best way to convey how to do this part. I haven’t used Bitmap to Mesh, but it appears that it might be a superior method for this task.
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